Alexander Wang Autumn Winter 2014 Photo by PIXELFORMULA/SIPA/REX
A month of fashion kicked off this week as NYFW AW14 took place amidst a snow-covered New York City.
New York opened the Autumn/Winter ’14 collections as always this week, and what a week it was. Fashion veteran Diane Von Furstenberg celebrated 40 years in fashion with a collection that harked back to the label’s glory days. Whilst Marc by Marc Jacobs welcomed new girls Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley into the design helms of the cult brand.
Influence and inspiration was sought in just about everything, from all-American lumberjacks to the Star Wars Trilogy, the wardrobe of Bianca Jagger to BMX. And trends from patchwork to print clashes are already emerging, setting the tone for the new season.
One such designer flirting with the idea of patchwork was 3.1. Phillip Lim. Following on from the brand’s denim take on the technique, this time Lim worked it into silk shirts or fused it together in multicoloured, oversized shearling coats to get lost in. Stark monochrome was brightened by cartoonish colours and playful drawings – lilac flowers peaking over sheer shoulders and sunshine yellow petals sit beneath heavy dungarees. It was all very youthful. But masculine trousers and chic wrap skirts keep the collection very much for the Phillip Lim woman, albeit with a mischievous girlish side.
Diane Von Furstenberg Autumn Winter 2014
It seems Alexander Wang has quit the sports field and signed up for the military. His sports-luxe aesthetic has had a frontline makeover for AW14, with stiff collars, deep pockets, double breasts and boyish detailing opening the show. As the looks continued, his athletic leanings crept in with pops of neon, top-to-toe zips and oversized sweaters. The models showcased the looks like futuristic fembots, with the stuck down helmet hair and sci-fi beauty. Another strong collection from the NYFW favourite.
Sister act duo, Rodarte flirted with all things sci-fi this season too, referencing Star Wars of all things. The show opened with a look that screamed ‘sexy librarian’ with mustard tones, covered up turtlenecks and jaunty berets, before moving into a foil-like metallic parkas, and climaxing with Grecian style gowns printed with Luke Skywalker and C3P0. Unashamed geek chic at its finest.
Jenny Packham Autumn Winter 2014
On Sunday, fashion veteran Diane Von Furstenberg launched what was her 40th year in the industry. No wonder then that the collection harked back to her 70s roots – lots of gold, vibrant print and of course, plenty of wrap dresses. “A glamorous vagabond,” as Diane von Furstenberg said herself.
Another designer stepping back to the 70s this season was Jenny Packham. The British designer and favourite of Kate Middleton looked to style icon Bianca Jagger for inspiration. One-shoulder gowns, silk kaftans and Studio 54 jumpsuits all made an appearance, as did flashes of feather and crystal embellishments. High-octane glamour we’re expecting to see on many a red carpet throughout 2014.
On the flip side, one brand that us mere mortals will be wearing next season is Karen Walker. Her playful yet wearable collection boasted roomy trousers, boyish shirts and the new skirt shape – below the knee and billowing. A palette of cornflower blue, tactile suede sat over silhouetted black polonecks, whilst thick tapestry gave weight to skirts and masculine jackets.
Come AW14 it won’t just be skirt shapes that will have a makeover, new proportions will be injected into a host of separates. NYFW frontrunners, Proenza Schouler demonstrated this perfectly. Biker jackets came with voluminous cocoon sleeves, skirts sat high with a kick and flare full skirt. The effect was modern and brought together with fussy print clashes infused with sequins. Just like Phillip Lim, patchwork fabrics came together to form a mosaic of tactile textures, from buttery leather to wiry metallics and oversized quilts.
Marc by Marc Jacobs Autumn Winter 2014 Photo by Leandro Justen/BFANYC.com/REX
Our very own Victoria Beckham returned to the city to showcase her new collection too. Gone are the form fitting dresses the eponymous label has become known for, instead, boyish tailoring and simple lines. The coats were the winners of the show in milky whites with military chain fastenings.
Tommy Hilfiger kept his models suitably wrapped up given the snow blanket that’s currently covering New York. The catwalk had its very own dusting of snow as models rocked an all American look of lumberjack checks, boyfriend jeans, shearling bombers and chunky knit beanies. Practical, playful and youthful as ever.
One of the most anticipated shows of this New York Fashion Week was without a doubt, Marc by Marc Jacobs. Brit girls Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier showcased their debut collection as designers for the cult brand, with front row darlings Alexa Chung, Sophia Coppola and Rachel Bilson eagerly waiting. A sports hall played host to a collection and fitness themes were on the agenda, with boxing, motorcycling and karate references.
BMX style slogans sat across holographic tees and sporty polos sat beneath pretty much everything. The looks were styled with bulky boxing boots and tight, two-plait Wednesday Adams-esque pigtails. On the surface the collection exuded youth, but in true Marc by Marc Jacobs style, deconstruct the collection and you’re left with grown up, classic pieces – beautifully tailored coats, office-worthy suiting and must-have knitwear.
Read the NYFW report from New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer ’14.