StyleNest writer, Kerry Robinson visited to the rustic region of Puglia and discovered the perfect family friendly hotel, Masseria Torre Coccaro. 

Tucked away in the heel of Italy’s elegant stilettoed boot is Puglia – a hidden gem just a hop, skip and a family-friendly 2.5 hour flight from London. Drive through the acre upon acre of stone wall-lined groves, and you’ll begin to understand the scale of the area’s olive oil industry (it produces 80% of Italy’s oil). Don’t expect the sophisticated tourist trap of Tuscany – Pugila is raw, unspoilt Italy. And is all the more beautiful for it. Largely undeveloped, peaceful and welcoming, it is truly bewitching, with pretty, sleepy towns sit perched on top of hills and nestled in valleys.

A 50 minute ride from Bari airport, Masseria Torre Coccaro stands proud among a vast estate of 800 year old olive groves. As you drive along the bianche strada white gravel road, this ancient, fortified farmhouse cuts a striking contrast against the blue skies. The bright white-washed walls dripping in cerise bougainvillea and the doors and windows framed by distinctive red shutters give the Masseria a distinctive look. The hotel has been lovingly restored, retaining all its beautiful, historic features, including chapel, fireplaces, bell tower and grand gates.

Some of the hotel’s 39 rooms are in the ancient farmhouse or its outbuildings, including a garden suite with its own pool, the chapel suite with huge living space, vaulted ceilings and its very own terrace with pergola, heavy with ancient grapevines, and two suites on the top floor of the tower itself command stunning views of the surrounding olive groves and coastline. For families, beautiful wooden cots are ready and waiting in your room, as is any manner of request you may make – a baby monitor and potty in our case. The rooms have all the digital mod-cons too – Wi-Fi, TV and DVD players (the extensive DVD library is a family life-saver), Tivoli radios and wireless phones.

The pool is perfect for families, although being unheated and a little on the brisk side on shady days, is refreshing in the scorching Pugliese sunshine. The sloping, beach-like surround and baby pool gives younger kids a safe place to play. Ancient olive trees provide welcome shade from the sun, as well as the pool-side bar and restaurant, serving delicious light lunches (however ‘light’ in Puglia is far from light) and homemade gelati. Next to the pool is an outdoor play area to keep the children entertained. A giant, enclosed trampoline, climbing frame and swings, football nets, and table tennis provide hours of fun. Or take a wander into the hotel’s groves and farm land to visit the horses, goats and chickens.

It’s in the gardens where you’ll begin to understand the hotel’s dedication to home-grown food, and the freshest of ingredients. If you’re lucky enough to be there during vine harvest, the kind gardeners will dish out delicious grapes still warm from the sunshine.  Puglia is food heaven – rustic, hearty and real Italian cuisine. The olive oil here is distinctive and delicious. The red wines are full-bodied and divine. The cheese, the bread, the pasta, the vegetables, the fish make every meal time a mouth-watering feast.

Escaping for some me-time is easy at the hotel’s Aveda spa. It is truly a hidden retreat – you could walk past the tiny wooden door a hundred times and not realise what lies behind it. The cavernous spa is cool and calm, and offers an array of treatments. Afterwards you can take a dip in the natural plunge pool carved out of the rock, or relax on the huge day beds while sipping delicious Aveda liquorice tea.

The coastal towns and villages are prefect for a trip out on the hotel’s bikes. Or for the more serious Lycra-clad, the hills behind the hotel are a great training ground if you bring your own wheels.  Like much of Italy, there is a great passion for riding here. The climbs may not be on the Giro but they’ll make you sweat. And if you want to be put through your paces with some secret holiday training, just ask for Enzo at the hotel. The svelte waiter serving your breakfast is an animal on the roads (ask him about his national credentials) and the best, most generous, holiday training buddy you’ll find.

The hotel’s stunning beach club is just a ten-minute shuttle-bus ride away is. Voted one of the world’s best beach clubs numerous times, you soon discover why. The white linen drapes surround an exclusive lounge, bar, seafood restaurant and beach-wear boutique. The decked terrace features large, shaded Balinese sofas, shaded by bamboo and grass canopies, hammocks and even open -air Aveda treatment rooms.

But this isn’t just a romantic hideaway for couples. This is a magical place for families too. A crèche and kids play club will keep the kids busy as you head along the wooden walkway, through the dunes to the club’s private beach area, reserved for guests of the hotel and its sibling, Masseria Torre Maizza. There’s a wonderfully relaxed atmosphere on the beach and the food is delicious – you can eat stone-baked pizza at your sun beds, a salad nicoise on the decked terrace behind the dunes, fresh catch of the day in the restaurant or oysters at the bar.

Masseria Torre Coccaro is a wonderful family retreat in an unspoilt, unpretentious area of Italy. Be warned though – Puglia has a habit of getting under your skin and drawing you back, again and again.  The staff here are incredibly helpful and friendly – this is not pretentious five-star, this is relaxed luxury.

Need To Know:

Need to know

• Rooms: 37.
• Rates: Double rooms from £204.67 (€252), excluding tax at 10 per cent.
• Facilities: TV/DVD, internet, large pool, small indoor pool at the Aveda spa, Turkish baths, yoga/chikung facilities and gym. The hotel runs a cookery school, where guests learn to make traditional local delicacies, and offers a cocktail course.
• Check-out: Midday.
• Children: Children under two stay for free. Children between two and 12 are charged at €90. A babysitting service and a kids’ beach club (June–September) are also available.

For more information please visit Masseriatorrecoccaro.com.