Makes: 10 medium-small, or 15 tiny, rolls

What You’ll Need:

For the marinade

• 100g (2⁄5 cup) plain yogurt, not too sour
• 20g (11⁄2 tbsp) roughly chopped root ginger (peeled weight)
• 2 large garlic cloves
• scant 2⁄3 tsp garam masala (fresh if possible, see page 113)
• scant 2⁄3 tsp ground cumin
• 1 tsp chaat masala
• 1⁄2 tsp ground turmeric
• 2 tsp concentrated tomato purée
• salt
• 1⁄8 tsp chilli (chili) powder, or to taste

For the rolls

• 240g (83⁄4oz) paneer, cut into small fingers 2cm (3⁄4in) wide x 5cm (2in) long
• 2 tbsp vegetable oil
• 3⁄4 small green (bell) pepper, thinly sliced
• good handful of thinly sliced red onion rings
• 50ml (31⁄2 tbsp) Tangy Herb Chutney (see page 182)
• freshly ground black pepper 

For the wrap

• 125g (1 cup) plain (all-purpose) flour, plus more to dust
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil
• 6–8 tbsp water, or as needed

What To Do:

• Blend together all the ingredients for the marinade. Season to taste with salt; I use 1 tsp. Add the paneer, gently turn the pieces to coat, and leave to marinate as you prepare the dough.
• Put the flour in a bowl and pour in the oil, water and a good pinch of salt. Knead together well; it will be a bit squelchy at the beginning but should become lovely and soft without cracks once it is done. Cover with a damp dish towel and leave to rest for 20 minutes.
• To make the breads, place a tava or frying pan over a medium heat. Divide the dough into 10 pieces and roll each out on a work surface lightly dusted with flour into a thin, round bread around 13cm (5in) in diameter. Dust any excess flour off the bread and place on the pan.
• Cook, turning once, until the bread has just a few light brown spots on both sides; it only takes a minute or so. Repeat to cook all the breads, stacking them on a dish towel, covering each with the corners as you go to help keep them soft. (You can also reheat them in some foil in the oven.)
• Now back to the rolls. Heat the 2 tbsp oil in a saucepan, add the pepper and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the paneer and all its marinade and cook, stirring often, until the liquid has reduced and you can see oil in the pan, 6–8 minutes or so. You might need to add a splash of water at some point once the pan gets dry. Add the onions and cook for another minute, or until the liquid now just coats the ingredients and is still moist. Take off the heat.
• Working quickly, spoon a line of the filling down the centre of each wrap, top with 1 rounded tsp Tangy Herb Chutney, wrap them up and serve hot.

Martin Poole, photographer, and Quadrille, publisher (RRP £20).  You can buy a copy of I Love India on Amazon