Donna Karan New York SS14 Charlotte Tilbury
StyleNest caught up with MACs Director of Artistry for the UK and Ireland, Terry Barber to find out the latest MAC trends for SS14.
Spring Summer 2014 sees a return to femininity, going back to the idea of health and freshness. The skin is radiant with fine veils of transparent makeup, offering an alternative vision to “coverage”. Instead, the skin is sensually resurfaced, revealing the face instead of concealing it. SS14 undoubtedly sees a “skin season” where the canvas of makeup is presented as almost a “skin photoshop” where it is blurred and plumped, softened and reflected. The Day-Glow inspired look offers a raw, rugged and healthy complexion with a nod to the elements of sun, sea, sand, wind, air and water.
At Proenza Schouler more blush and less contour was the focus of the look. The bronzers of SS13 have since been replaced with a pinched cheek for a soft, peasant chic look, offering pure simplicity. Similarly at Giles, transparency was at the heart of the look using Groundwork Pro Longwear Paint Pot washed over the eyes for a natural shading of colour.
At Chloe a sporty biscuit skin with a honey tone charged the complexion for a “fresh, beautiful, summer skin” – Diane Kendal. Complimented with a tea stained eye, moisture and hydration was key to this look, ensuring the skin was replenished with a healthy moisture dew.
The next story revealed CC-Thru Colour, which has replaced last season’s pop-art colour blocking look with a hazy “instagram” effect. This season has moved towards eye brightening with watercolour eyes offering a contemporary colour effect. Pops of pastels, dove grey and nude shades played an intrinsic part in this look, redefining the “colour rules” of makeup and pushing the boundaries of colours and skin tone.
J J S Lee SS14 Lucy Burt
At Holly Fulton pastel purple presented a 70s wash, complimented against feathery lashes and a transparent complexion. The shadow was blended over cream for a flawless watercolour finish whilst Frozen White Pigment was added for sparkle and a three dimensional effect.
At Mary Katrantzou, Val Galrland described the look as “reality…real girl wearing a red lip”. The tomato lip blurred around the edges was a key look of the season highlighting the use of stains and pigments, with a just bitten washed effect. A contemporary red lip, MAC Pro Chromagraphic Pencil was applied to the outer edge of the lips followed by a dab of Studio Finish SPF 35 Concealer to create a blank canvas for the lips whilst Ruby Woo Lipstick was then buffed onto the lips for that blurred line finished effect.
StyleNest’s favourite look for SS13 is the Light FX, where white is used to accent the features and to finish. A modern and fresh take on the sporty look, white has been used as a highlighter or a cat eye flick. An expansion of the moonlight glow, this light reflecting look exudes healthiness whilst effortlessly adding accents of light without any colour. Described as “super-skin” by Val Garland, these injections of white, gold, silver, glitter, shimmer and frosting offer a freshness to the season which highlights the features of the skin.
At Marni Tom Pecheux described the look as “it’s purity…with a twist to everything. I love the shade that the visors are creating; I wanted to add to that shade in a diffuse shape. Everything in this makeup has a little twist to it. I was inspired by the painted Markus Schinwald and the way he brings amazing detail to the face”. It’s about enhancing perfection and highlighting dimension, this “French manicure facial” look was set against a warm skin whilst white was used as a natural accent where the light would usually focus.
Manish Arora SS14 Kabuki
At Kenzo we saw the story of the element with a zinc white liner crest wave. “The focus of the look is a white eye liner that represents the crest of a wave with an opaque line elongating from the corner of the eye, right to the end.The collection is surf, California-inspired, and the eyeliner is like a signature” – Aaron de Mey.
Spring Summer 14 sees a range of eye detail as the feature of choice. This season, makeup has moved a little south from the brow, revealing different ways of weighting liner, revealing a balance between attitude and sophistication. The New Eye-Deal look exercises textures and techniques using liquid, kohl and gel to help change the structure and form of the line giving the line a thinner, blunter of thicker wedge for a punkier inspired look. At Haider Ackermannn, the look was “tough, confident girl who doesn’t who doesn’t care” – Stéphane Marais with a long feline flick emphasised in the inner corner enhanced with MAC Pro 3D Silver Glitter to add extra dimension and sparkle to the eyes.
At Paul Smith, a Jane Birkin inspired style was achieved, creating a soft doe-eyed look with a 60s festival look. This season lashes made a return with either lashings of mascara or none at all by applying mascara and rubbing after you’ve finished to break it up for a 90s slept-in eye or layering for build up rich intensity.
Spring Summer 2014 sees a season of transparent complexions, watercolour lids and statement lines.
For more information visit www.maccosmetics.co.uk