After a hugely successful career that includes pop-ups at The Dorchester and appearances on BBC2’s Great British Menu, Michelin star chef Shaun Rankin opens his very own restaurant, Ormer on the island of Jersey.
Famed for its fresh local produce and on-the-doorstep abundance of seafood, it’s little wonder acclaimed chef Shaun Rankin decided to open his very first restaurant on the island of Jersey.
Born and bread in County Durham, Shaun’s northern drawl doesn’t quite match his Jersey uptake, thankfully though, his food does. In fact, it surpasses it. Although the tiny island has a fair few celebrated foodie spots, even Michelin awarded restaurants; Ormer brings the isle something completely different.
From the outside, the town bistro building sits in the center of Jersey’s shopping district, tucked shyly away down a side street. The exterior is rugged and rustic; it could be anything from a trendy restaurant to an old family run eatery.
Inside however, every corner, piece of cutlery, bar stool has been thought out. And with Martin Brudinski, whose work includes London’s The Ivy, Annabel’s and J. Sheekey, at the helm of the restaurant’s interior, it’s not surprising.
As Shaun himself puts it, it’s “understated sophistication,” with dark wood paneled walls, a bar brimming with decadent decanters and broad leather arms chairs in jewel tones offering pops of colour. The vibe is a little 50s New York, a little 30s Paris, it could easy sit in London’s Mayfair. A tiny island in the English Channel? It’s certainly unexpected.
The chic bar is nestled in the corner of the restaurant and calls out for pre-dinner cocktails. So we oblige, and order an Old Fashioned and a Rum Cobbler served up in a beautiful dainty wine glass.
The menu is a showcase of what Shaun Rankin does best, innovative food, celebrating great British, and in this case, Jersey produce. From Jersey lobster to local turbot, British lamb to local penny wart, it’s a feast and ode to the best of the British Isles.
To start we had the Jersey lobster ravioli served with scallops, ginger, crab and puffed black rice – a celebration of the sea with an oriental twist, and the Royal Bay Oysters hidden amongst parsley soup, pickled cucumber and oyster leaf salad. Unbelievably fresh, the flavours from each tasted as though they’d been dropped from beach and field straight onto plate, via the magic of Rankin.
With a great wine list, both European and New World, there’s plenty to choose from. Or like us, put your trust in Ormer’s charming sommelier and let him do the hard work. He chose us a wonderful pairing for each course, from classic merlot with steak to a more unusual partnership of turbot and pinot noir.
Choosing which main to go for wasn’t the easiest of choices – these are dishes that jump out at you, waiting to be tried, each and every one of them. We settled on the fresh local turbot, beautifully balanced by meaty shoulder of lamb and served with pearl barley and seaweed ragout. And the beef dish – an indulgent assortment of foie gras, potato gallette and mushroom puree that literally melted in the mouth.
If you can manage dessert there are such delights as rhubarb soufflé or one of Shaun Rankin’s classics, the treacle tart.
Post dinner guests are invited to relax in the upstairs bar with a cocktail or two, either slumped on the comfy couches or propped up at the bar chatting to the polite, friendly and very talented barmen. We braved the summer evening temperatures and sipped post dinner cocktails on Ormer’s cushion clad cigar terrace, nestled up high amongst the Jersey town roofs.
With starters priced at as little as £11 and mains £22, Ormer offers exquisite food at an affordable price point. This is something Shaun Rankin has always dreamed of doing, and has finally found a place in the market to do so.
You may have to cross the channel to get there, but Ormer could rival any of the top restaurants currently causing a stir on the London foodie scene.
Ormer, 7-11 Don Street, St. Helier, Jersey JE2 4TQ Tel. +44 01534 725 100 www.ormerjersey.com