In London, a building that once had an historical purpose is almost guaranteed to be impressive and the Conrad St James is no exception. Formerly a Chambers and later, the seat of the Treasury Solicitor, it’s located within easy reach of Westminster and, from the street, one’s first impression is of distinguished grandeur.
The warm and easy welcome we receive from the staff is consequently even more striking. In an airy foyer, in which intriguing artworks are displayed, the check in process is brief and effortless, and the smiles genuine (both ours and theirs!). I inwardly wince for a moment as we’re led to the elevator, but we’re simply directed to our room, without that weirdly awkward thing of being escorted all the way to its door.
Our room is both comfortable and practical: the hotel’s central London location translates to a slightly corporate feel – you can imagine business travellers being completely at home here. That said, there are plenty of luxurious accents, by way of a vast bathroom (well stocked with thick white towels and Shanghai Tang toiletries) and a huge, supremely comfortable bed that makes seductive suggestions about napping NOW and ordering room service later. Even so, we have Executive Lounge access, as we’ve booked an Executive Room, and there are set hours for the serving of (unlimited) drinks and canapés, so greed wins and sleep can wait …
It’s busy when we arrive, but a table is quickly made available and we’re soon happily ensconced with glasses of prosecco and snacks from the self-service area. Telling the staff that we have some dietary requirements to be taken into account sees them swiftly producing a tasty and intolerance-friendly selection of canapés, which we try not to eat, since we have dinner booked at the hotel’s Blue Boar restaurant, but after they’ve gone to all that trouble … well, it would be rude to leave any unfinished, right?
Heading downstairs to the restaurant, I notice that it’s little too quiet for the ambience to be ideal but, taking a cue from the fairly corporate feel of the room, I imagine that it’s probably far more lively on a weeknight, when the business crowd are in residence. In any case, the flip side is that the staff are calm are attentive, not only providing service but also genuine warmth and engagement. It’s a winning combination alongside our introductory glass of champagne and amuse bouche, followed by starters of perfectly prepared sweetcorn risotto with charred courgette, toasted almonds and goat cheese, and a plate of gin-cured Scottish salmon, served alongside salt-baked beets, pickled fennel and sunflower seeds.
One of the restaurant’s most celebrated features is its Josper Grill: a combination of high temperatures and woodchips cook the meat to perfection whilst infusing it with a unique flavour. Under such circumstances, we can’t help but order a steak, which is served with triple cooked chips, a portobello mushroom and vine cherry tomatoes. Our other main – pork with scallops, salt-baked turnips, butternut squash and kale – is also excellent; the quality of the meat is unmistakable. The dessert menu is tempting, but even after waiting a while, we find we’re too full to tackle it. Next time!
It’s a very different vibe when we return to the Blue Boar the following morning for breakfast – it’s packed, so it seems that most of the hotel’s guests were out exploring London last night. Judging from the amount of map-consultation going on around us, it’s primarily a traveller crowd – and the hotel can help with its range of 1/3/5 hour curated itineraries, which emphasise on best local art, food, culture and tailored to your available time. The buffet is replete with options, including a juice bar for the health-conscious – and the eggs to order are made perfectly.
Even if you’re not staying at the hotel, its lovely lounge, Emmeline’s, does a wonderful afternoon tea: the Spring menu features treats like apple and pistachio opera cake, key lime tartlet, and matcha tea macarons, as well as old favourites along the lines of smoked salmon, coronation chicken and traditional scones. Priced at £35 per person (£45 with the addition of champagne), it would be the ideal way to round off a day in London, perhaps exploring the nearby St James’ park en route.
Nightly rates at Conrad London St. James start from £249, based on two people sharing. (Conrad London St. James / 020 3301 8080)