interiors and still life images by kristy noble photography in London

During its twenty five years in business, Patara has carved itself a position as London’s premier destination for fine quality Thai food. This appears not to have had it resting on its laurels though; the group has just opened a new London flagship restaurant on Berners Street which sets out to raise Patara’s game to the next level.

Located next door to the London Edition Hotel, the restaurant occupies an enviable spot in the heart of W1 just a stone’s throw from theatreland and Oxford Street. Although Patara is a group of restaurants, this outpost feels like a one off. Designed by the people behind Chotto Matte, Barrafina, and Quo Vadis, it’s a sultry and enticing space with subtle, moody lighting; a definite date night possibility.

Patara wanted to do something different with the Berners Street branch to set it apart from its sister restaurants, and thus it has its own menu with a mix of old favourites and innovative new dishes. Patara describes itself as “authentically different”, so although some of the dishes here won’t be found on a typical Thai menu, the cooking is rooted in familiar Thai flavours and cooking techniques.  One of the specially created starters is Chor Muang which consisted of tiny, purple, flower shaped dumplings filled with caramelised chicken and sweet turnip – they were delicious. We chose Lamb Shank Massaman and Curried Black Cod as our main courses. The lamb shank, standing in for this dish’s more typical beef,  was beautifully tender and paired perfectly with the  smokey massaman curry sauce. The cod was again a great dish, wrapped in banana leaves and then cooked with red curry and kaffir lime. The dish was finished off with a pumpkin puree and was the winner of the night. Side dishes consisted of a collection of rice and vegetables but nowhere could we see mention of Som Tam. If this side is your favourite (a spicy green papaya salad, and one of Thailand’s national dishes), ask for it – they can whip up a fantastic one.

We finished our meal with another national dish – Khao Niao Mamuang (Sweet coconut sticky rice with mango). Delicious, and made with real Thai mangoes.

The Berners Street branch of Patara offers modern and indulgent Thai food. You’ll find something a little bit different, but with all of the familiar aromatic flavour that makes Thai food so irresistible.