StyleNest headed to the idyllic Isle of Scilly to discover whether the traditional romance of travel really still exists.
We’ve always thought that the romance of travel was long gone -wearing your Sunday best to board the plane or hopping aboard the Orient Express for an exotic adventure. Travel certainly has changed; it’s become the norm, it’s remarkably less expensive and you can book a flight in a matter of minutes at the click of a finger.
That was until we visited the Isle of Scilly and discovered that a slow-paced, Elegant and truly special way to travel still exists. As Londoners, travel is a big part of our lives but not one that we necessarily enjoy, thanks to daily stuffy tubes and jam-packed bus routes.
Our journey to the Isle of Scilly however broke all the rules of travel we’d become accustomed to, as we easily sunk into a the good old fashioned, slow pace of holiday life.
Boarding our early morning train at London Paddington, like we had so many times before, we had no idea what the weekend would have in store. The beginning of our journey to the tiny island of Tresco (one of a cluster of isles kicked off the coast of Cornwall), was a train journey down to Penzance, and the first of a mere six forms of transport we’d have the pleasure of taking that same day.
If you’ve ever travelled from London to Cornwall you’ll know the idyllic route. The signs of Underground stations turn into suburbia, suburbia into rolling home counties countryside, followed by field after field, until you hit the coast. From here you pass sleepy seaside towns plucked from vintage postcards and the vast English Channel. You get a real sense of leaving the Big Smoke, and the four hour journey is actually quite relaxing (as long as you have your iPad and a book).
From Penzance we made our way to Land’s End Airport; a near shed nestled on the tip of England’s South West coast and aptly name – you really do feel as though you’re perched on the end of the earth.
The flight from Cornwall to the Isle of Scilly only takes 15minutes, despite this, it was one of the most memorable we’d ever taken. As no more than a dozen passengers pile in to the tiny Isle of Scilly Travel aircraft, the two person wide plane is more like a taxi than something that should be anywhere above ground. Nervous fliers may not enjoy the fact that you can see the pilot and his co, sat in the same size chair just a row in front, the flight panel on full display. But after a bumpy takeoff and a firm squeeze of our partner’s hand beside, the view from above was breathtaking. As the plane curved away from the dreary mainland, the sea turned from murky green to a beautiful, bright and clean blue, whilst the dots of tiny islands made the window view look more like a moving map than anywhere we’d ever been in the UK.
Before we knew it we were landing at St. Mary’s Airport, on grass no less, again a firm grip. If we though Land’s End airport was small, St. Mary’s is micro, but nevertheless full of charm and full of smiling faces to greet us.
From here we were picked up by a mini bus to take us over to the other side of the island, where we would transfer to the Isle of Scilly’s sister isle, Tresco. The route was beautiful, winding country roads barely big enough to fit one vehicle down, charming local shops and cafes, and lavender growing by the side of the road. The Isle of Scilly was becoming more and more Darling Buds of May by the minute, and we loved it.
We arrived at the harbour to our awaiting water taxi that was to take us to Tresco. Tresco is a little known island, 28 miles off Land’s End, family owned and a mere two and a half miles long and just one mile wide. Only 150 people permanently live on the island, and this together with its size, un-spoilt and protected natural environment, and location give it one unique, standout selling point; the weather. The island has its very own microclimate, and although, yes it does rain (this is still the UK after all), the temperature rarely drops below 14degrees, even in the depths of winter. This may have something to do with why everyone we met on our trip to Tresco was so happy and content.
After a 10minute or so water taxi and an unexpected dolphin show, we transferred to our abode for the weekend in a rickety old tracker wagon. The idyllic Sea Garden Cottage is just one of a range of properties you can hire on the island.
Surrounding the cottage was a beautifully curated rock garden, whilst the property itself was glad in washed out wood, perfectly playing homage to its rustic surroundings. The kitchen was fully equipped, perfect for cooking up tasty summer dishes with the island’s fresh produce, and the living room comes set up with all the added extras from Sky TV to WiFi. But it was the upstairs bedroom that really impressed. A huge, squishy bed with beautiful linens looked out onto a first floor level decking, and beyond that a view of Tresco’s stunning coast. Waking up to that is something we’ll never forget.
Adjacent to our little set of cottages was an indoor swimming pool, gym and outdoor tennis courts, all available to cottage guests. We’d planned on taking a dip in the pool or attempting an early morning gym session, but in truth, Tresco has so much natural beauty and activities that the island itself is really all you need to occupy yourself.
Once settled we hopped on our bikes that had been delivered and were waiting at the back of our property, and headed out to explore the island. The island is so wonderfully small that you get a sense of it in just minutes. We trailed the coastal roads, which are only used by bikes, tractors and golf buggies, not a car in sight.
The pace is slow on the island and everyone is faultlessly friendly, not one person passed us without a huge smile and a “hello”. And refreshingly, just one shop was you can pick up everything from local fish to wine, buckets and spades to household products.
Come evening we headed across the road from our cottage to one of the very few restaurants on the island, the Beach Ruin. At the centre of this rustic beachside eatery is a traditional wood fired oven, which cooks the restaurant’s signature pizzas, roasted meat and fresh fish dishes. The local Tresco beef is a must-try, as is the affogato to finish.
Nowhere on the island stays open particularly late, but we spotted the staff staying on to accommodate a larger group of visitors who were chatting post-dessert. It seems everyone who works on the island is eager to accommodate the isle’s guests in any way they can.
Day two on Treso and we were up early, but unfortunately not with the sun. The heavens had opened, but despite this the island still looked beautiful, grey sky and all, and the temperature was still warm. We headed off to one of the island’s biggest draws for tourism, the Tresco Abbey Gardens.
Set in the grounds of an old abbey, these gardens are nothing like you have ever imagined would grow in the English Isles. Giant palm trees tower over above and a plethora of sub-tropical plants scatter the rows and rows of beautiful botanics. The Abbey Gardens are the work of garden curator Mike Nelhams, and we had the pleasure of being taken around the gardens by Mike himself. The vast and varied plants, from as far flung as the Mediterranean to New Zealand, South Africa to South America, would have no hope of survival on nearby Cornwall, but in Tresco, thanks to its unique micro climate they flourish. In fact, if the sun had been shining, we’d have thought we were in the Caribbean rather than Blighty.
The experience was one we will never forget, and after visiting, it came as no surprise that Tresco and the gardens were a place frequently visited by Prince William and Prince Harry with their parents when they were boys.
As we left the gardens, rather ironically the sun came out. We headed to the Flying Boat, a one time Royal Naval Air Station and now casual bar and restaurant. We tucked into deep fried queenies and traditional fish and chips, whilst looking out at the beach below.
As afternoon set in, it was time to hit the islands spa. Yes despite the island being a mere two miles long it comes complete with a luxury spa. We indulged in their signature treatment, the kundalini massage, drifting off into a slumber, and undoing those city knots we’d accumulated.
Dinner was again served up at the nearby Ruin, but the food is so consistently good here, we’d happily eat there every night for a week. As night fell we headed back to our Sea Garden Cottage for the final slumber set against nothing but the crashing waves of the sea, the path lit by tiny garden lights nestled in the bushes and the glowing moon above.
The next morning we headed off, the exact route we’d travelled just two days before, wagon to sea taxi, airport transfer to another tiny 15minute flight. In reality we could have stayed on Tresco for a week at least. The slow pace, the friendliness, the warmth (both human and climate-wise!) had us completely fall head over heels in love with this unique island. If there’s one thing for sure, one trip to Tresco and you know it won’t be your last.