Escape to Vienna

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post-das-loft-rafaela-proellConsidered one of the world’s most culturally important capitals, Vienna’s artistic and musical legacy is incomparable. With a wealth of museums, theatres, coffee houses, world class hotels and superb restaurants, it is the ideal European city break.

Nestled on the banks of the Danube River in east Austria, Vienna has a well-deserved reputation as one of the world’s most beautiful cities. The Romanesque, Baroque, and neo-classical architecture remained largely undamaged throughout its history, so today has a similar unspoilt charm as beloved cities such as Paris. Vienna’s reputation for classical music is unparalleled; the list of famous former residents includes geniuses such as Mozart, Beethoven, and Strauss. Classical music remains an important part of Viennese life up to the present day, with the city continuing to host over four hundred balls a year keeping alive an enchanting social tradition.

The cities numerous palaces – most of which have been converted to museums – enrapture visitors with their opulent splendour, while internationally celebrated museums showcase works of art by master painters such as Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele. Vienna sits amongst a small group of other cultural supremo cities as the crème de la crème of weekend break destinations.

Stay

Palais Hansen Kempinski Vienna

One of the Kempinski group’s newer properties, the Palais Hansen is an imposing neo-classical palace on a quieter part of the Ringstrasse. Its convenient location makes exploring the city effortless; attractions are all just a few minutes in a taxi and the subway is a short walk from the hotel.

Bedrooms and suites are all have high ceilings and generous square footage. Many also have balcony access offering views of the Ringstrasse and Viennese architecture. Technology is next level; showers and bathtubs are controlled with button interfaces that allow guests to pick the exact water temperature they desire.

The Lobby Lounge – from which an all-day dining menu is served – is surrounded by the hotel’s other food and drink options: Michelin starred Edvard, the less formal Die Kuche that serves Austrian classics and the hotel’s breakfast (until 2pm on weekends), a piano bar, and a cigar lounge. Elsewhere in the hotel is a small spa complete with several different saunas and steam rooms, a hydrotherapy pool, and a 24/7 gym.

Hotel Sacher

The grandest of Vienna’s grand dame hotels, Hotel Sacher defines Viennese culture. It is round the corner from the State Opera House and invented Sachertorte – the world’s most famous chocolate cake. A decadent palace of gilt framed oil paintings and wood panelling, the Sacher will delight those with a penchant for 19th century interiors and old-school service to match. Prices, of course, are accordingly high.

Sofitel Stephansdom

Ultra-contemporary and very slick, Vienna’s Sofitel is the city’s most modern place to stay. Housed within an office-block style building, it offers probably the best views over Vienna of any hotel in the city. While the hotel lacks traditional Viennese style, it makes up for it by being a beacon of serious cool.

Palais Coburg

Something of a “baby grand” hotel, Palais Coburg offers gilded aristocratic style on an intimate scale. The subterranean entryway and banqueting chambers contrast sharply with the palatial style upstairs. Bedrooms are either contemporary with strategically placed antiques, or in the better suites full Louis Phillipe XVI regalia. The hotel offers dining at 2 Michelin starred Silvio Nickol or the charmingly informal Clementine.

Eat

Restaurant Konstantin Filippou

A foodie’s paradise, Michelin starred Restaurant Konstantin Filippou is a dazzling culinary adventure. Chic, restrained décor provides the perfect backdrop to Konstantin’s visually impressive dishes. When we visited Konstantin was in the kitchen checking every dish that left; nothing less than perfect ends up on diners’ tables. The restaurant serves a steal of a business lunch at around thirty-something euros for three courses, but if you can, opt for one of the tasting menus. They come in four or six course versions with a choice of meat or game for the main course. Starters were a notable highlight: a selection of amuse bouche was followed by brandade with Grull caviar, the signature Norwegian langoustine with calf tongue, and truffled lobster tail. All were sublime. Fine dining with flair, Filippou is our favourite Viennese restaurant.

Edvard at Palais Hansen Kempinski Vienna

“Fresh Cuisine” is the ethos at Michelin starred Edvard. If fresh is used to mean innovative, then this description fits perfectly. The kitchen – under executive chef Anton Pozeg – has made a concerted effort to use less familiar ingredients and make the most of Austrian produce. While we were there they served delicacies such as Sot-l-y-laisse (chicken oysters) with Alba truffle. The restaurant lends itself to elegant evening dates, sophisticatedly designed in shades of ivory, black, and pale green.

Das Loft

The first thing you notice about Das Loft is the view. Located on the 18th floor of the Sofitel, floor to ceiling glass windows allow for 360 vistas across the Vienna skyline. Clever design features give the cavernous space a sense of playfulness. Firstly, there are vividly colourful ceiling panels which are illuminated after dark. From outside they shimmer against the night sky; a pretty landmark for those passing by. Diners also sit on swivel chairs which can twist to face the view, something even the most formal of dining companions won’t be able to resist. The clientele consists partly of tourists, but has a high proportion of locals. They come for afterwork drinks and the well-executed menu of international cuisine. We ate fantastic truffle tagliatelle, butter soft ray with gnocchi, and a flavoursome fillet of venison. The restaurant also serves the hotel’s breakfast; widely considered one of the best in the city.

Rote Bar & Restaurant

Early weekend booking is essential at Hotel Sacher’s Rote Bar & Restaurant. There is no place more romantic or intimate in which to feast on classics of Austrian cuisine; shimmering crimson wallpaper, deep velvet chairs, and the faces of Austrian ancestors staring down from gold framed paintings give a luxuriously old-fashioned vibe. Wienerschnitzel with parsley potatoes, boiled beef with rosti, dumplings in consommé, and the hotel’s infamous Sachertorte are all available. Silver service finishes off this taste of bygone era decadence.

Do

Museums

Vienna’s historical significance can be explored through its large number of excellent museums and galleries. Many of the cities imperial palaces have been converted to public spaces: the Belvedere is home to a collection of 19th and 20th century Viennese art, older oil paintings, and hypnotic ceiling frescoes, while the Imperial Hofburg Palace features three museums as well as being surrounded by cultural treasures such as the Spanish Riding School, National Library, and the Natural History Museum. Art lovers will be kept happy at the Leopold Museum which holds a collection of modern Viennese art by Austrian master painters such as Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele, and MUMOK has Vienna’s best contemporary art collection. The Kunsthistoriches Museum is considered the jewel in Vienna’s museum crown, where artefact from the ancient world and old master paintings are displayed in a glorious festive palace.

Vienna State Opera House

The resplendent, neo-Renaissance Wiener Staatsoper is one of the world’s most famous opera houses. It’s also the most active; each year the Vienna State Opera Company puts on over 50 operas and a handful of ballets. The foyer, finished entirely in carved stone, is a wonderful first impression of what’s to come and a romantic spot for couples’ photographs. We managed to catch a ballet while in town. It was a bewitching and unforgettable evening. The productions book up weeks in advance, but if you can get tickets, you simply must.

Café Culture

Vienna’s coffee house culture is world famous. For hundreds of years it has been an important part of Viennese daily life. Whether you come to read a newspaper, write in a journal, people watch, or indulge in a slice of cake or two, there’s nowhere quite like it to let the hours drift on by. Café Central is the most famous, but today it’s become a real tourist hotspot. Still, it’s worth seeing once for the architecture alone. Other popular favourites include cafés Hofburg, Imperial, Mozart, Landtmann, Sperl, and Demel. Aside from all the historic cafés, Vienna is home to many smaller niche coffee shops that provide a cosier experience.

Christmas Markets

A long held tradition that dates back to the 13th century, Vienna is often considered the home of the Christmas market. Today’s markets have of course become increasingly touristy, but there’s still handicraft treasures to be found and gluhwein (mulled wine) to be sipped. They run from mid-November until the end of the festive season, and the city hosts over 20 of different sizes and themes. There are comprehensive guides listing all of them, but the most popular include the Christmas Village at Maria-Theresien-Platz, Vienna Christmas World at Rathausplatz, the Old Viennese Christmas Market on Freyung, the market on Stephansplatz near the cathedral, and the Schonbrunn Palace’s market which converts after Christmas into a New Year’s market to carry on the fun.

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