Ho Chi Minh is … extraordinary. I don’t think anything could have prepared me for just how mad the pace of this burgeoning city is; certainly not the blissful flight with Vietnam Airlines (the only airline to fly there directly from London) which had left me feeling nothing but relaxed and cocooned – no mean feat, when we’re talking long haul.
Imagine leaving this womb-like environment and being placed squarely in mayhem. The noise and movement are relentless. There are pedestrian crossings, but they’re 100% tokenistic: traffic does not stop, not for you, not for anyone, not even when you gather every last reserve of courage and step boldly out into the onslaught. People swerve around you, people slow (slightly) down – but they do not stop. You want to kiss the ground when you reach the other side of the road. People are everywhere. Buildings soar above you. It’s the most glorious versions of hell I can imagine, because it makes you feel so alive, so stimulated and so exhausted that it is, in spite of itself, irresistible.
That said, having a haven to which you can return – whether at the end of day (for the hardcore) or at regular intervals throughout (me) is vital. I’m astounded by how I feel when I arrive at the Park Hyatt Saigon – it’s just … blissful. I can’t pinpoint any one thing – it’s not specifically the chandeliers, nor the luscious floral arrangements, nor the unobtrusive but fantastically soothing background music. It’s not even the welcome of the staff, who have that incredible knack of making you feel like they are genuinely happy to see you, actually you.
And that’s before you even get up to your room. The French influence, which makes its presence felt through much of our stay in Vietnam, is at its elegant best here. There are gold highlights, bird designs and striped upholstery clashing with/ perfectly complementing sumptuous carpets. There are curved arms, ornate furniture, high ceilings, tall windows, plantation shutters and natural light. There are exotic displays of complimentary fruit atop spindly-legged glass-topped tables. There’s white linen, a sumptuous pile of pillows, a supremely comfortable mattress, dreamy little bedtime stories provided as part of the turn-down service – and a Nespresso machine to wake up to in the morning.
There is also, from my room, a view of the lushly planted gardens and pool – and it’s to this oasis that I head a couple of times a day, just to unwind from the pace of the city beyond these walls and to cool off from its hot sticky climate. Fortunately, the Park Hyatt Saigon is located close to many of Ho Chi Minh City’s major historic and cultural attractions – such as the Ben Thanh Market, Reunification Palace and Saigon Opera House – so spending a few hours exploring and then returning to the hotel to unwind is perfectly feasible. There’s also a small but perfectly formed spa, where elements of traditional Vietnamese medicine are blended with plants and herbs of the region to promote wellness and relaxation. Odd though it may sound, one of the highlights of my session here was wrapping myself in the Kashwere robe provided – it’s so unbelievably soft and comforting that I just want to wrap myself up in it and float away, especially after a night spent hopping between the city’s many buzzing rooftop bars. And actually, even though the sound of a horn blaring is at first audible over the relaxing Eastern music being played, it’s not long before I do float away during the course of my hot stone massage.
Although sampling street food will no doubt be high up on your list when visiting Ho Chi Minh City, a night in at the Park Hyatt is also highly recommended: its Square One restaurant is a feast for the senses, with indoor and outdoor seating areas, private rooms and five integrated show kitchens, allowing you to observe the seamless action of the chefs from the comfort of dark wood surrounds. There’s an arresting floor-to-ceiling wine display, with a selection of more than 1200 bottles with which to complement your meal. Menu-wise, there are difficult-to-make choices between authentically Vietnamese dishes and succulent Western style meats: I had a sublime Australian Wagyu, washed down with an Australian Barossa Valley red – and any vague guilt I had about not ‘going local’ melted away with that first mouthful. Elsewhere within the hotel, there’s also the informal Opera restaurant, which serves Italian dishes, as well as the Park Lounge, where you can order traditional high tea in an elegantly luxurious setting.
Vietnam Airlines offers the UK’s only nonstop flights to Vietnam, with daily Boeing 787-9 Dreamliner services from Heathrow Terminal 4 to Hanoi or Saigon and return flights available from £462 per person. Rooms at the Park Hyatt Saigon start from £258 per room per night.