Altuzarra New York Fashion Week AW15
All the need-to-know trends, front row gossip and catwalk highlights from the New York Fashion Week AW15 catwalks…
A month of shows and a plethora of new trends kicked off in New York with the first of the Autumn/Winter ‘15 collections. Read on to see the catwalk highlights, and most importantly, what we’ll be wearing next season…
KANYE WEST X ADIDAS ORIGINALS
The Need-to-Know: Trust Kanye West to start proceedings with a bang. His debut for Adidas was one of the most talked about shows of the season – be it down to the cool mix of distressed khaki sweaters, versatile bra tops and rather interesting nude body suits, Kylie Jenner’s take on the catwalk, or may be North West’s major FROW break-down. Either way, with Beyonce, Jay Z, Kim and Nori sitting in the first front row of the season, this was the show to see this season.
The Trends: Military, Luxed-up sportswear in a refreshing and totally wearable palette of khaki, nudes and browns – something which many New York designers channelled this season.
The Hero Piece: The Yeezy Boots are sure fire sell-out, so if you can’t get your hands on a pair, we suggest investing in a distressed knit – perfect for the gym or the FROW.
VICTORIA BECKHAM
The Need-to-Know: It’s always a family affair at the VB show but for the first time, all of the Beckham clan sat front-row, all suitably matching in FROW-perfect black ensembles. Aside form the all-important guests, AW15 is one of VB’s best collections to date, and confirms her status as a designer who wants to care for women’s wardrobes.
The Trends: Statement outerwear, Winter white vs colour! When not showing white and black there were orange coats and yellow suede skirts – we love.
The Hero Piece: It’s a tough call between the twisted knit teamed with the mid-length skirt or those stomping, go-anywhere boots in caramel leather. To be honest, we’ll take it all…
DEREK LAM
The Need-to-Know: The 70s trend ain’t going anywhere thanks to Derek Lam’s perfect flared pant suits. Dedicated to his “New York heroines”, there were nods to 70s heyday Diane Keaton as well as Mia Farrow and Katherine Hepburn.
The Trends: Dreamy camel and caramel hues, V-neck cricket sweaters, and undoubtedly suiting- which itself proved to be a massive trend in NY where no-one did it better than Lam.
The Hero Piece: It’s a tough call between the multi-coloured tuxedo worn by Binx Walton and the fluid, loose-fitting culottes with a deep six-inch contrast hem.
ALTUZARRA
The Need-to-Know: One of, if not THE, best Joseph Altuzarra collection ever. Finding inspiration in Truman Capote’s Swans, Altuzarra explored a modern wardrobe in velvet devore’s and lacquered lace. Mixing 18th century dandies and Truman Capote Altuzarra struck sartorial heaven. Plus his debut bags were to die-for.
The Trends: Red, red and more red, plus lots of amazing heavy embellishment –a key trend to takeaway from the NY shows.
The Hero Piece: The shimmering dresses and vampish thigh-high boots are what we’ll be stepping out into for the winter party season.
ALEXANDER WANG
The Need-To-Know: North West was the first to get her hands on a highly covetable look from the Wang Autumn/Winter ‘15 collection. Arriving in a mini version of look 6 complete with studded-hem skirt, she promptly broke down in tears mid-show. Toddlers aside, this was a truly amazing show and proved that Wang just gets better.
The Trends: Chainmail, hardware, punk plaid, heavy attitude, gothic dresses, black, lots more black, and the chunkiest hiking boots you ever did see.
The Hero Piece: Look 25’s fisherman knit with ball chain detailing; the heavy metal embellishment take this humble cable knit to the top of next season’s must-have list.
Rodarte New York Fashion Week AW15
RODARTE
The Need-to-Know: Delicacy like we have not seen to such sophisticated effect before – even down to the make-up where Swarovski crystal-studded lashes were hand-glued to the models. Easily one of Rodarte’s most beautiful shows. Boho showgirls in lace, sparkle, nocnhalanet parkas and lots of leg.
The Trends: Magical embellishment came in the form of sequins and feathers all at once. And when not in awe of these shimmering beauties, the fashion pack were focussed on the new must-own item of the AW15: the statement parka.
The Hero Piece: Easily the striped sequin dresses. Or actually, make it one of the dreamy parkas
J. CREW
The Need-to-Know: There were key 3 style lessons to take away from this brilliantly accessible show… #1 Grey doesn’t have to be boring, opt for slouchy tailoring, tonal shades and texture play. Style lesson #2: sequins work 24/7 when teamed with modern tweed. #3 : You will absolutely love this collection. And what’s even better is the fact it’s not about trends but instead about pieces you can wear and love season after season.
The Trends: Embellishment – but here a sequin cocktail dress was layered over a shirt with an oversized coat layered on top for desk to dinner sparkle. Unexpected colour pairings – yellow + blush + khaki – were prevalent and introduced a wonderful summer comes to winter vibe.
The Piece: Er, can we have it all? But if we had to choose, we’ll take the wide-leg grey pants and sequin embellished boxy tee please.
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
The Need-to-Know: 3.1 Phillip Lim confirmed it, the theme of New York fashion week was “grown-up” and in the case of Phillip Lim, that comes with a rebellious spirit. Celebrating 10 years of the label, it was a moment of redefinition and creating a new aesthetic for the hugely influential global brand.
The Trends: Great parkas, luxe sportswear, distressed knits, menswear-inspired tailoring with a feminine touch, punk attitude
The Hero Piece: Those to-die-for strappy shoes, teamed with a grey eyelash sweater and a rather stern burgundy wrap skirt.
THE ROW
The Need-to-Know: Every season The Row is critically but very subtly acclaimed. But for AW15, editors heaped the praise on Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen’s designs and aesthetic. These utterly perfect pieces are everything you want to own. Yes they’re incredibly expensive but they’re also incredibly timeless and versatile. Serenity personified.
The Trends: Cream and coffee hues, slouchy tailoring, power woman over-sized knits, winter white, soft layering giving separates dressing an urban attitude.
The Hero Piece: The exquisite (and no doubt astronomically priced) butterscotch crocodile kimono-style jacket which proved to be an Instagram hit.
Coach New York Fashion Week AW15
COACH
The Need-to-Know: AW15’s set was an elevated train track surrounded on two sides by a painting of snow-covered hills: Brooklyn meets the Great Plains. This city-country concept extended to the clothes which proved to be equal parts cool and sturdy. Put simply, it’s an amazing collection with the ultimate balance between covetable and wearable. And in case you were in any doubt, we’re huge fans and love the direction Stuart Vevers is taking with the directional, on-point brand.
The Trends: Fantastical outwear, plaid, punkish black leather, heavy-duty footwear,
The Hero Piece: We’re very *very* into the motorcycle girls with their bovver boots hinting at the 90s again, but ultimately our heart lies with the black leather biker spliced with an un-dyed shearling sheepherder coat. This is how to tackle style in the winter…
MARC BY MARC JACOBS
The Need-to-Know: With a killer collection AND soundtrack, the Marc by Marc Jacobs rebel models (and designers Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley) brought a refreshing new energy. The most rocking show of NY Fashion Week saw the children (aka Kendall Jenner) of the revolution march out and demand solidarity.
The Trends: Punk, stomping studded flat boots, military, plaid, slogans, evening tailoring, statement outerwear
The Hero Piece: Look 9’s arm-green coat and studded boots will ensure were suitably dressed for winter while also showing our support for the MBMJ revolution.
Tommy Hilfiger New York Fashion Week AW15
TOMMY HILFIGER
The Need-to-Know: Pulling out all the stops for the 30th anniversary show, Tommy Hilfiger transformed his venue into a football stadium, complete with a Jumbatron capturing the fashion as models walked the astro turf. Faux-fur stadium jackets, cashmere ponchos and football-lace boots all added up to the all-American dream and chief coach Tommy Hilfiger and his star team scored with the top team kit.
The Trends: All-out sports luxe with retro references for added off-catwalk appeal.
The Hero Piece: It has to be the football boots, the IT-shoe of AW15…
PROENZA SCHOULER
The Need to Know: A feast of abstract, tribal, art-cool clothes, this was one of New York’s finest hours, or 12 minutes to be exact.
The Trends: Urban tribes, parkas, sparkle, surface texture, furry coats and arty references. Breaking the mould is also a theme born in New York and epitomised by Proenza Schouler.
The Hero Piece: It was all perfect.
MARC JACOBS
The Need-to-Know: The show to end all shows, Marc Jacobs never disappoints with the final show of the NYFW schedule. And this season, his electrifying ode to legendary ‘fashion addict’ Diana Vreeland was powerful and evocative. Luxurious furs, form-fitting power dresses and eccentric textures, lengths and silhouettes, it was everything you could hope and wish for from a catwalk show.
The Trends: Sombre black and navy palettes contrasted with subtle and interest pinks and ochre, embellishment and sparkle, and a stonkingly powerful feminist message in leather, buckles and tutus.
The Hero Piece: Look 14’s quietly amazing double-breasted blue wool overcoat with a delicate and beautiful sequin trim in gradient tones. Simply divine, it proves our AW15 wardrobes are set to be pretty special…