Abbaye de la Bussière
La Bussière-sur-Ouche
To drive through the gates of Abbaye de la Bussière is to enter an enchanting world of history, serenity and elegance. Except, that is, when the baby throws up, just as you arrive…
Luckily, it was our second stay at the Abbaye, so a little like coming home. Thankfully, we knew by then, that despite its very posh façade the welcome would be warm and genuine so this unfortunate event wasn’t cause for too much embarrassment.
Michael was first to greet us and, all credit to him, he wasn’t fazed by our crisis – he remained jovial and charming as usual – providing towels and a helping hand to deal with our unfortunate situation.
Drama over, we soon huddled in from the cold into the jaw-droppingly beautiful cloisters of the Abbaye. Even if you’ve seen it before, you can’t fail to be impressed by the splendid architecture, the pure grace of it all. It’s not every day you can gaze at 12th century design all around you: Cistercian stone pillars and arches, gothic galleries and sculptures, authentic frescoes and magnificent stained glass windows are all around.
Although this unique hotel is in the heart of Burgundy, it’s owned by a British husband and wife team, Clive and Tanith Cummings since 2005 – the monks of bygone times would have been ok with this because, funnily enough the Abbaye was founded in 1131 by an Englishman, Stephen Harding, the 3rd Abbot of Cîteaux!
Although it’s no longer a place of prayer, and hasn’t been since shortly after the French Revolution, the atmosphere is still calm and almost ethereal. The Cummings (who apparently fell in love at first sight with the place and purchased it on the very same day) know a thing or two about hospitality. The couple ran the historic and award-winning Relais & Châteaux Amberley Castle back in the UK.
Having restored the Abbaye and its 17 acre park and soon joining the Relais & Châteaux hotel group, it wasn’t long before the team also gained a Michelin star for its gastronomic restaurant, Le 1131.
Its location half an hour’s drive from Dijon, Beaune and the famous Route des Grands Crus wine trail makes it the perfect stop for those needing an overnight when travelling south, or as a base for wine lovers to discover the region.
Safely ensconced in a cosy room under the eves (one of 20 rooms) we soon regrouped amongst the tapestries, plush soft furnishings and antiques. With a bathed baby (whirlpool bath with Bulgari white tea scented toiletries no less) and a hungry 5 year old in tow, it was time to discover the Bistrot des Moines’ menu.
From our past experience we knew the Michelin starred restaurant to be excellent. How would the bistrot compare? Both are run by head chef, Guillaume Royer, who in 2015 was awarded the prestigious title of ‘Meilleur Ouvrier de France’, one of only four in the region of Burgundy and Franche Comté. He also received “Grand de Demain” Gault & Millau 2016 & “Grand Table of the Year” Trophées de la Gastronomie 2016 for his outstanding cuisine.
The Maitre d’: Stéphane Champin and sommelier Freddy Jaugey didn’t blink when faced with 2 junior diners. On the contrary, their welcome was genuine and heartwarming. Never has a one year old eaten in such splendor. Nevermind the 12th Century setting and the sparkling chandeliers, she just loved the silver cloche her vegetable soup was so elegantly served under.
While Junior ate the most tender poultry and perfectly cooked penne, we were treated to amazing ‘oeufs moeurette’ in red wine and mushroom sauce, followed by veal and the finest velvet like puree. Simplicity meets perfection. Each dish, paired with a local glass of wine, the meal was a delight.
Way past the little ones’ bedtime, it was time to head back to our plush suite where 900 years of history were oozing through the walls, though the wide screen TV worked well as a reality check.
I loved the attention to detail: the baby bed with its cute starry quilt, the cassis welcome cake and the bottle of liqueur (to be sampled at a later date!). As usual the tranquility, the cosy factor and the sheer welcome had me smitten.
In the morning, we glued our noses to the ancient windows and surveyed the misty park with its ornamental lake and Paul Day cow sculptures. Apparently the grounds are home to 50 tree species cohabiting with many plants that grow alongside the river Arvot. It’s a bit too chilly for a stroll, so next time we’ll stop by in the Springtime. If they’ll have us back!
Abbaye de la Bussière, 21360 La Bussière-sur-Ouche Tel: +33 (0)3 80 49 02 29 / Fax: +33 (0)3 80 49 05 23
[email protected] / www.abbayedelabussiere.fr Rooms from 225Euros only.