StyleNest took five minutes out with knitwear designer, Emma Kasyan, Head Knitwear Designer at London Fashion Week brand, Emilio de la Morena.
Russian-born, London-based designer, Emma Kasyan has earned herself an impressive fashion CV since completing her MA in Fashion Knitwear at the acclaimed Central Saint Martins. From Celine to Stella McCartney, and now her Head of Knitwear role at Emilio de la Morena; Emma is one of the designers leading the way in her field.
This season, Emma has teamed up with the LoveKnitting initiative, which together with some of London’s most prestigious fashion colleges, is on the look out to find knitting’s next big talent. Emma will make up the judging panel, along with other influential and inspiring figures in the fashion and knitwear industries.
Here, we talk to her about the LoveKnitting campaign, her design inspiration and what it’s like to work for one of the hottest, up and coming London Fashion Week designers, Emilio de la Morena.
Congratulations on the latest Emilio de la Morena collection, we loved the Autumn/Winter ’14 show. Has everything calmed down a bit post London Fashion Week?
Thank you. It definitely has. It’s always such a rush a couple of weeks before the show, no matter how early you start developing and swatching. The work doesn’t stop there though. Emilio is now in Paris, presenting the collection to international buyers.
How did you and the rest of the team celebrate when the show was over?
We all went to the pub for a couple of drinks. But the biggest celebration is resting, and the luxury of time to see an exhibition or go for walk.
We loved the textures and bold colour clashes in the collection. What was the inspiration behind it?
The main inspiration was Emilio’s Spanish roots and the art of Francisco Goya. Some of the colours and textures came from his paintings. When we were initially discussing the collection, nets and Spanish lace came to my mind. This is where the macramé skirts came from. We also looked at the kind of pom pom decorations that are so often found in traditional Spanish clothing. We conveyed this in the oversized bobble stitches.
You’re currently working with the LoveKnitting initiative to find the next big knitwear designer. Tell us a little about that?
I love the concept and it is amazing how much attention knitting and knitwear is receiving through initiatives like this, as well as exhibitions and shows. Knitting is no longer a forgotten art, it is very much contemporary and has a huge potential.
What advice would you give to young and inspiring designers?
My main advice is would be to simply love what you do. Take any opportunity to be creative, work hard, but play hard too. Always find time to go out and get inspired. Be it through art, fashion, performance or friends.
You were born in Russia but are now based in London. Where do you call home?
I was born in Sochi and my family is still there, so I have an opportunity to visit now and again. But I’ve spent my formative years in England. I guess it’s a different kind of home in Russia; I get to be a child again when I’m there.
You studied at the prestigious Central Saint Martins. What is it about London’s art colleges, especially Central Saint Martins that spawns such creative talent?
When I was a school student I always knew I wanted to be in London, there was no question about it. You have access to museums and galleries, markets and libraries – the best research you can get as a fashion designer. Although I’ve been loyal to Central Saint Martins throughout my education, there are other London-based colleges with great programs, such as Chelsea College of Art, London College of Fashion and of course, the Royal College of Art for postgraduates.
How would you describe the Emilio de la Morena woman?
The Emilio de la Morena woman oozes femininity. She’s confident and definitely wears the best dress at the party.
If you could dress any woman who would it be?
I would love to dress Roisin Murphy. I’ve been a huge fan of her music and style as long as I remember. She’s amazing.
When you’re not working, how do you relax?
My favourite thing to do is a take long walk around London, especially by the river or the canal, with no particular journey plan. When I was young I used to read a lot, so that is something I want to take up again when there is no work to be done.
What is your first memory of fashion?
Probably stitching a button to a flowery piece of fabric at the age of about three. My Barbies used to be wrapped in self-made knitted rectangles that I would stitch in places to make into a dress. It’s funny, I had no idea at the time that I would be a ‘professional knitter’ when I grow up.
What other London Fashion Week designers did you admire this season?
I have an admiration for all designers being able to put a collection together. It’s great to see what young designers are doing and how the LFW catwalks are full of young talent. I’ve closely followed Yulia Kondranina’s collection, since I am on her team as a knitwear designer.
What is it about London’s style that sets it apart from other fashion cities?
Throughout the years, London has welcomed and celebrated things that are “different” and it manifested in so many subcultures, music and art. There is a juxtaposition of traditional British- prim and proper with something that is a bit rough around the edges. It really works. The other great thing about London is people are free to express themselves through appearance without being judged. It’s the freedom to be and do, which makes London so great.
Where do you like to shop / eat / drink in London?
I really like shopping at vintage fairs, and although it may be a cliché, e-Bay is my best friend. The Wapping Project was amazing too, it’s a great exhibition space and a place to eat and drink with a constantly changing menu. But unfortunately it was closed in December last year. For food, I love to go to Camino. It’s excellent for Spanish tapas, with a nice authentic atmosphere.
Who would be on your dream dinner party guest list?
Cleopatra, to see if she really was as beautiful as she’s thought to be, or if it was her voice that was so seductive. Artist, Arshile Gorky, to talk about his childhood. And Audrey Hepburn because she was simply lovely and made knitting look glamorous.
Finally, who or what inspires you?
My mum, who has flawless style and is my inspiration. She really instilled my fashion sense among many other things, and everything I do I owe to her.
For more information about the LoveKnitting initiative, please visit www.loveknitting.com