Victoria Beckham SS15 New York Fashion Week

StyleNest reports on the highlights, emerging trends and need-to-know designers from the SS15 collections in New York…

It’s official: fashion month has begun. And with the likes of Alexander Wang, Rodarte and Marc Jacobs on the schedule, it set the bar high for the following three weeks of non-stop shows, parties, presentations and street styles peacocks.

So what can we learn so far? Well, New York was a week of big firsts, and indeed equally as important seconds. From the first Anthony Vaccarello collection for Versus Versace and Victoria Beckham’s first shoe designs, to Jason Wu’s second collection for Hugo Boss and Kendall Jenner’s second, if only more triumphant, season on the catwalks.

And what about NY’s take-away trends? Early contenders come in the form of military uniforms, contrast colour details, embellishment, a python and khaki overload, American sportswear and last but not least, a serious knitwear explosion.

Now let’s get to the serious business of the key collections straight from the Big Apple…

Michael Kors SS15 New York Fashion Week

Alexander Wang

NY’s posterboy is the man who put streetwise sportswear on the map and reinvigorated the NYFW schedule. So understandably Alexander Wang is one of most eagerly anticipated shows of the week. But this season, Alexander Wang outshone himself.

Full of sexy, desirable clothes women are going to want and wear the collection reconnected Wang to his early days -when girls first started falling in love with his downtown cool. This season the new Wang was the old Wang, only with a lot more artisanal details. Streamlined blazers, pulled in with Aertex belts or giant barcoded waist cinchers were teamed with high-waisted trousers almost as tight as leggings.

Wang’s reinterpretation of the trainer was however, the key take-away point from the hit show. Now, trainers on the runway may not be anything new, but in the case of Wang’s masterful eye, it means something altogether excitingly new. With the likes of Nike’s Flynknits reimagined as clingy body-con dresses in electric hues, these were sexy-as-hell clothes, desirable, wantable and totally wearbale. Crop and bra tops in fluid brights teamed with cigarette pants and neon flippy minidresses made from tiny pleats and worn over micro-thin black turtlenecks are precisely what this collection will be remembered for.

Proenza Schouler

The sportswear theme continued through numerous shows, and unexpectedly reappeared on the Proenza Schouler catwalk, where it made a starring role. With fellow Americans recently taking over at other European houses – Jason Wu at Hugo Boss and Jeremy Scott at Moschino – the new American aesthetic that Proenza nailed is one to take note of more than ever.

Proenza’s designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez delivered their version of American sportswear. But of course, that’s only half if it. The designers may have started out with basic building blocks, but that’s not where their experiments ended up. Proenza’s parkas were made from laser-cut and colour-blocked leather; polos were hand-knit, with leather panels inset across the chest. Want a T-shirt? Theirs were leather with crocheted seams. Like with many other NY shows, python was in abundance and knitwear ruled. So great it was, the Proenza argyle sweater and unravelling fringe skirt is one of our stand-out looks from the entire week.

Coach SS15 New York Fashion Week

Victoria Beckham

In complete contrast to the bold palette and ultra-modern textures of Wang and Proenza, Victoria Beckham was the first to introduce an opposing and equally as important NY theme: the one of paired-back yet ultra-desirable uniforms and the military connotations that the concept implies.

The silhouette here was precise but not punishing, safari minidresses proved the wearbiltiy of the collection while patch pockets decorated outerwear and contrast colour leather belts added a very subdued hint of colour. Beckham added to the NY knitwear explosion with her versions with lace detailing.

This collection seemed more like a turn in a new direction and one that was also pretty – not only was there VB’s first ever shoe collection (teal velvet giant platforms, and white pointed cowgirl shoes, in case you wondered), there was also the first ever VB print -a cheery pink floral one at that.

Michael Kors

While Victoria Beckham took a new direction, Michael Kors stayed true to his renowned signature style and offered a light, effortless collection perfect for summer in the city. The big takeaway idea here was a relatively simple one but in reality, the long men’s cotton shirt paired with a billowing skirt and ballet flats makes for city perfect dressing. These, like the designer’s pristine white sweaters, drainpipe trousers and easy denim jackets instantly ticked off summer’s requirements. We’ll be heading here for city perfect dressing come summer 2015.

Versace Versus SS15 New York Fashion Week

Altzuarra

And as for next summer’s eveningwear, Altuzarra is our man once again. Sexy is never far from his collections just as his fetish-like leather latticework skirts proved. On first glance, the soft tailoring and pretty colours gave a conventional effect but on a closer look, skirts were split dangerously high and fabrics almost see-through. Altuzarra’s signature and hugely wearable pencil skirts made a welcome return while his show-stopping lavish gowns made this one of the stand-out hits of the week.

Coach

Making waves for completely different reasons, Coach’s colourful, retro girl gang took us on a sun-drenched road trip across America where cartoon characters sprawl across sweaters and parkas are made from pastel faux fur. Doesn’t sound quite like Coach does it? The brand has been through some serious repositioning of late, and its reincarnation into a candy-hued youthful sub-culture is seriously covetable. Sliders, clogs, pastel leather minis, leopard print peacoats – it was fun, playful and totally unrecognisable.

 Jeremy Scott

Just as Stuart Vevers was making waves over at Coach, Jeremy Scott enlisted the help of Miley Cyrus to ensure his collection was one of the most talked about of the week. The rave-like mash-up of printed baby doll dresses, crop tops and mini bomber jackets in bright orange leather made for a trippy, hippy, ecstasy-inspired fun collection – and one with the added extra of Miley’s ‘dirty-hippie’ handmade accessories. Whether you approve or not, there won’t be any ignoring this collection come spring 2015.

Versus Versace

As if there wasn’t enough drama and excitement riding through the shows, Anthony Vaccarello presented his truly knock-out debut collection for Versus Versace. Embodying Versus in style and Versace in attitude, a series of body-conscious black pieces accented with gold buttons, clasps, and breastplates strode down the catwalk and brought a little of Gianni’s magic to the streets of New York. Thigh skimming miniskirts, low-slung tailored trousers partnered up with bondage bodysuits, unbuttoned black silk shirts and medusa heads as belts, as well of course the re-proposed safety pin dress. Sexy as hell and totally amazing, seeing really is believing.

Marc Jacobs SS15 New York Fashion Week

Hugo Boss

Contrasting with Versus Versace’s high octane glamour, Jason Wu produced a paired-back, yet technically advanced SS15 collection in his second outing as Creative Director of Hugo Boss. While the masculine aesthetic of the brand was still present, Wu moved the label forward with more textural advancements and feminine cuts. Glass-like lace pencils skirts, flared skirts and raised hemlines created a flirtier sensuality while fluid layers, transparency, bonded leather and knee-high gladiator sandals added a modern feel to the brand. Watch this space, Wu is taking this label to exciting new levels.

Marc Jacobs

And so, onto the finale. Marc Jacobs, the eternal showman rounded off the week in typical spectacular style, with a bubble-gum pink suburban house on pink gravel as his catwalks back-drop. And in doing so, cemented one of the key trends of the week- and most probably, the season.

As the models filed out of the house Marc built, the Marc Jacobs fashion army was revealed.

Embellished khakis are the mandatory uniform with glitter-strapped sliders the new field boots. With spectacular new column dresses in navy and khaki, over-sized sweaters and shirts decorated in giant buttons, and volumous mini dresses with over-sized pockets and satin belts army style. Where do we sign up?